The Spirit of Syracuse

Before Athens bloomed into a philosophical powerhouse, earlier than Rome mushroomed into the axis of an empire, the city of Syracuse was the envy of the ancient world.

This illustrious city set on Sicily’s Ionian coast was founded by Corinthian settlers some 2,700 years ago and remains a fascinating window into the past. From the old quarter islet of Ortygia—which connects to the mainland via Ponte Umbertino bridge—to Syracuse’s rural outskirts lie Greek temples, Roman amphitheatres, Byzantine castles, Baroque churches and many other historically significant marvels that have earned the city UNESCO World Heritage Site status. But Syracuse is not only about past glories. Today, this golden city by the sea has found favour with holidaymakers seeking a calmer alternative to bustling Palermo and chaotic Catania. Here, quaint cafés spill out onto sun-flooded piazzas. Artisan gelaterie pop up on unexpected corners. Sandy beaches and rocky lidos rim the coastline, serving up a refreshing beach-and-city cocktail for a Mediterranean getaway like no other. Discover the true spirit of Syracuse with a little help from these hand-picked essentials.

A Greek, Roman & Jew walk into a city

Journey down Syracuse’s multifaceted timeline with a trip to the Neapolis. Within this hallowed archaeological park lies the Teatro Greco, a 16,000 capacity amphitheatre that was chiselled out of the white-rock hillside in the 5th-century BC. Wander through the catacomb riddled quarry of Latomia del Paradiso and give the thumbs up (or down) to the oval-shaped Anfiteatro Romano, once home to bloody gladiatorial games. Elsewhere in the city, are the ancient Greek ruins of the Temple of Apollo. And buried some 20 m beneath Ortygia’s former Jewish ghetto is Europe’s oldest miqwe—ritual baths which continue to bubble with fresh water.

Whisper in the Ear of Dionysius

When inside the Neopolis, be careful not to divulge any intimate secrets while passing through the Ear of Dionysius. This massive man-made grotto amplifies even the most hushed of utterances. Legend has it that Dionysius I, the Greek tyrant of Syracuse, imprisoned enemy captives here. From a special crevice that burrows deep through the cliffside, he’d eavesdrop on their mumblings and whispered machinations, gaining precious intel on his adversaries. With such skulduggery, it’s no wonder Syracuse went on to become the mightiest of Greek colonies under Dionysius’ despotic rule.

A night at the puppet opera

Epic battles are waged to seize Sicily. Lovelorn chevaliers warble ballads to blushing maidens. And masterful swordsmen slice each other limb from limb. This is just a typical evening at the Opera dei Pupi. Sicily’s history of irreverent puppet opera dates back to the early 1800s, when troubadours would roam from town to town puppeteering on the back of intricately painted donkey carts. Gaining popularity, the entertainment eventually moved from the streets into the teatrini. While Sicily’s great puppet troupe families have died out, the marionettes remain alive and kicking (figuratively speaking at least) in a handful of dedicated theatres around the island. Syracuse has bragging rights to two of the finer ones with the Compagnia dei Pupari Vaccaro Mauceri and the Compagnia Marionette Don Ignazio Puglisi.

Corner the market

Get in step with the pulse of Syracuse with a trip to Mercato di Ortigia on Via de Benedictis, open daily between 7 and 2, bar Sundays. Merchants here are showmen. They bellow out bargains. They serenade passers-by with jolly ditties. And, as you’d expect, they gesticulate with all the am-dram theatricality of street mimes. As you stall-hop, you’ll be offered enough sundried tomatoes, olives and focaccia samples to throw an impromptu picnic. But should the lunchtime pangs kick in, you might want to hold-off on the freebies and make a beeline for Caseificio Borderi instead. This little sandwich shop, run by the peppy Burgio brothers, has become a local legend. Sink your teeth into giant bread rolls bookending a colourful, freshly-prepared Jenga-tower of cured meats, cheeses and veggies. Buonissimo!

Gelato sunsets with fountain nymphs

Enjoy a little gelato indulgence with Syracuse’s exquisite ice cream parlours. Try scoops of uniquely Sicilian flavours such as creamy cassata sprinkled with a jewel box of dried fruits, or a subtly sweet ricotta and pear option. And the perfect spot to enjoy your icy treat? The Fountain of Arethusa. It may not look like much, but this papyrus sheltered pool is of godly stock. According to Greek myth, when the nymph Arethusa fled her underwater home in Arcadia, she surfaced in the fresh waters of this very fount. The fabled fountain has been immortalised in classic poems by Virgil, Milton and Wordsworth. Recite a dreamy couplet or two while strolling along the scenic Arethusa promenade by the coast. Sunsets here are especially pretty.

Sea castles & caves

Explore Syracuse’s shoreline on a fascinating boat tour departing from Ortygia’s pretty harbour. On your Syra-cruise, you’ll visit the impressive Castello Maniace that guards the island's southern tip. The fortress bears the name of George Maniakes, the Byzantine general who besieged the city in 1038. Past formidable 16th-century Spanish bastions you’ll reach the secluded grotto marine. These marble sea caves drip with stalactites and give off otherworldly hues of greens and blues and purples. Peer over deck to glimpse the parazoanthus axinellae, an oft-seen coral flower that glows like a pot of gold on the murky seabed.

This article originally appeared in Living Wow magazine, issue 3.